Would only regulating a Optima Car Audio battery underneath a metal cover may be put an finish to my lights dimming?

• 

  sparky3489
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  A top is usually great so distant as the audio complement isn’t perplexing to lift as well most from the electrical system. A top doesn’t yield some-more power, it’s written to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, zero esle. If the stream isn’t there, the top won’t help.

  If your sum complement energy is 1000 watts RMS or more, we will need to:

  1. Upgrade the generator of electric energy to the tall outlay alternator
  2. Upgrade to the complicated avocation low cycle battery
  3. Upgrade the "Big 3" – which is to reinstate the energy handle in between the battery as well as alternator, the belligerent from the battery to the framework as well as the belligerent tag from the engine/tranny to the framework with during slightest 1/0 AWG wire.

  Failure to do this will outcome in we replacing them any way as the generator of electric energy will in the future fail.

  Here is the beam which will work out what distance generator of electric energy as well as energy wires we need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621

  You’ll need Microsft Excel to operate it.

  See my site for some-more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

• 

  zanilth1984
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  I would suggest removing a capacitor, as well as presumably seeking to see if we can get a stronger alternator. Upgrading your battery will be a great thought too, though we do not consider it will compromise a complaint completely.

• 

  conejote_99
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  no many expected a complaint will still be there keep a bureau battery as well as implement a yellow tip in a case tighten to your amplifier

• 

  TomB
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  Doubt tlhat will compromise a light dimming. Optima still is a twelve volt battery. Low outlay during resting not permitting alt to put out sufficient amp to keep up with acc during idle. A lot of car creates lights low during idle, often inlet of a beast.

• 

  Rawbert
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  I had a smashing complement in my Honda. we could fool around it with a car off for about an hour as well as it would begin up with no problem. we was using dual 10" subs.
  I switched to dual 12" subs (on a same amp) as well as it killed my battery whilst pushing down a freeway.
  I put in a 1.0 Farad Cap as well as we had no problems after that.

  So, we would supplement a Cap to your amp which has a subs bending up to it.

• 

  Evil Rondy
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  A top has "NO" outcome upon dimming lights. You need some-more current. An additional battery or dual as well as the dual-battery isolator. A aloft amperage generator of electric power wouldn’t harm either. Don’t rubbish your income upon the capacitor which won’t do anything.

  I’ve seen car systems with 20-Farad caps as well as they still dimmed. If people indicate 1-Farad per each 1000 watts, which should have been great for 20,000 watts. It was using "only" about 2500 watts, dual JL 1000/1’s as well as the Fosgate.

• 

  ohm
  September 23rd, 2009 at 5:04 pm

  Like formerly mentioned, the capacitor will usually have your complaint worse as it’s only an additional object your generator of electric power has to keep charged (as good as the amp as well as your cars’ electronics).

  Another battery will harm also, as your generator of electric power will have to keep it charged too.

  Do the Big3 upgrade;
  http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

  After this, you’ll need to demeanour in to the HO (high-output) alternator.

  Have Fun!

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